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Between 17 a little crown was positioned above the date letter; between 18 a crown of a bigger dimension was positioned on the right side of the date letter.
Exceptions are marks for 1834 (date letter on the left side and impressed with its base towards the crown) and 18 (date letter on the right of the crown, and crown impressed with its base toward the letter).
Prior to the change in the copyright law in 1955, the designs were patented.
The most commonly seen vintage Trifari pieces have signatures from pre-1955 through the 1990s.
Vintage jewelry from other countries may have European purity marks, such as “585” for 14K gold and “750” for 18K gold, as shown in the photo below.
Vintage costume jewelry usually doesn’t have purity marks, but will often have a maker’s mark (commonly called the signature), and can sometimes have a retailer mark and/or patent or inventory marks.
I’ve accumulated a modest library of vintage jewelry reference books and have created a page on my site that lists some of the best, along with a brief summary for each one.I’m also planning an article describing how to date vintage jewelry that isn’t marked.